Living Witnesses
Jambo! That’s hello in Swahili, which unfortunately is one
of only about 15 words I’ve learned thus far. Poli poli… (“slowly, slowly” or
“one step at a time”)!
With greetings behind us, now on to a heavy subject. If you know anything
about the modern day DR Congo, you probably know that it is politically
unstable and that there has been longstanding conflict between the government
and multiple rebel groups (often supported by surrounding countries),
particularly in the eastern Congo. If you’ve heard us talk about Nyankunde or
googled Nyankunde, you might also know that in 2002 more than a thousand people
were massacred here. From our dining room we can see the ruins of two houses,
brick walls without roofs, strangely picturesque with tall grasses and trees
growing out of them. You find ruins like these all over Nyankunde. The scars of
the violence aren’t just architectural, however. Almost everyone in this town
has been touched by the war. What follows are some brief histories of some of
our new friends.
Julien
Julien is our gardener and as of last Thursday our Swahili instructor. He is very hardworking,
knowledgeable and well-spoken. When we finally had the chance to ask him to
tell a bit of his story, this is what we learned. Julien was the headmaster of
a secondary school in Beni, which is a city to the east of us, near the border
with Uganda. A rebel group called the AFDL (a Muslim group based in Uganda) has
destabilized the area around Beni for years, and several years ago, Julien and
his family were forced to flee Beni during the night. He has been living here in
Nyankunde for several years now with his wife and twins. He was separated from
his 3 other children (who have been with other family members) until this
weekend, when he returned from a long journey by road (7 hours) and by footpath
(12 hours of walking) to bring them back. Can you imagine this happening to
you?
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| Julien giving us our first Swahili lesson |
Joseph
Joseph is one of the new doctors-in-training here at Centre
Medical Evangelique Nyankunde. The medical system is quite different here. One
finishes medical school and applies for a 6 month “internship” at a hospital.
During this 6 months, the doctor-in-training rotates through internal medicine,
surgery, ob/gyn, and pediatrics. Joseph has been on call day and night every
day for the past month, and he has another month before his schedule becomes a
bit more humane. At the end of the 6 months, most doctors start practicing as
general practitioners. Unlike in the states, you don’t get paid to do a residency
or fellowship here—you have to pay for it, and none of the Congolese doctors
here in Nyankunde have the resources to specialize… In any event, Joseph is
from Kisangani, a large city hundreds of miles to the west of us. I read
recently about a battle fought between the Rwandans and the Ugandans in this
Congolese city approximately 10 years ago, and I asked him if he was there. He
told me that in fact he was at school in his early teens, and his school was
situated squarely between the Rwandans and the Ugandans. He and his fellow
students were locked in their second story classroom when the violence broke
out. He ended up jumping from the second story window over a fence onto the
ground, just as a bomb hit the building. Miraculously unharmed, he then ran 5
kilometers to escape the violence and reach his family.
Albert
Albert is another doctor-in-training but is considerably
older than the others, probably in his 50s). I have not spoken with Albert
about his past, but our colleagues have. I have no details other than this: his
wife and all his children were killed at some point during the war.
Doctor Mike
Mike grew up in Nyankunde but then left as a young adult to study medicine. He was in Beni working at a hospital when the massacre in Nyankunde
occurred. In the aftermath of this massacre, Nyankunde essentially became a
ghost-town. After several years people slowly started to return, but the
hospital was ruined and there was no doctor. Someone convinced Mike to fly to
Nyankunde simply to see what happened. He started treating patients on that
visit, and has basically been here ever since. Initially, he was the only
doctor at the hospital, the hospital administrator, and the head of the health
district. He was constantly inundated with patients. He slowly recruited
several doctors, and now CME Nyankunde has grown from ruins to having 150+
beds. Mike now splits his time between Nyankunde, Kampala (Uganda) where his
wife and children live and attend school, and Switzerland where he is
completing a masters in international health.
Patrick



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